If you want the barrel separated from the the top rail, you can completely remove the top rail first.
Then, if desired, remove the rail screws to separate the rail from the barrel
For half rails, 1 rail screw connects the rail to the barrel
For full rails, 2 rail screws (middle & front) connect the rail to the barrel
Then, if desired, remove the front sight from the barrel
If previously disassembled, reattach front sight and/or rail to the barrel
See instructions to Install Top Rail and Barrel Together
On reassembly, I have read that the barrel screw torque should be 25 inch-lbs (NOT foot-lbs)
I've also read everything from 20 in-lbs to 50 in-lbs
Keep in mind that the frame is aluminum, so don't go crazy on it
Put copper anti-seize paste on it, so you can get it out more easily next time
Barrel, 5.5", Field / Target, Blue (B5152803)
Remove top rail
Remove recoil assembly
The "assembly" is composed of 4 parts: rod, spring, guide, and c-clip
1. Rod - 7/64" diameter and 3 7/16" long (groove is about 3/32" diameter)
2. Spring - about 4 3/4" long when free (wire size 0.0240-0.0245" probably 10 gauge music wire)
3. Guide - The guide is the black plastic tombstone-shaped piece at the front
4. C-Clip - The c-clip is a tiny c-shaped piece of metal that fits into a groove in the rod near the back, and retains the rear end of the spring
I've read that you should plan to replace the recoil spring every 5,000 - 10,000 rounds, due to wear.
The C-Clip is technically a "Crescent External Retaining Ring", also called "Rotor clips"
Max inside diameter is about 7/64" (0.106" measured)
Outside diameter is 5/32" (0.1545" measured)
Thickness is 1/64" (0.017" measured)
Rod diameter is about 7/64" (0.1060" measured)
Rod groove diameter is about 3/32" (~0.09375", my caliper jaws are too big to fit inside the groove)
Old factory c-clips appear to be plain steel
New factory c-clips appear to be steel with a zinc yellow coating for corrosion resistance
Closest ones I could find are 1/8" clips from G.L. Huyett, part # C-012-ZD/B
RFC User OlongJohnson found ones that he says are an even better fit. 3mm clips from G.L. Huyett, part # DC-003
See also RFC Thread 1149495 for discussion of the 3mm c-clip
Place assembly vertically on table with the front / guide end down and the back / c-clip end up
Pull the spring down, away from the c-clip with one hand, and hold it down (also hold the rod with those fingers)
Use needle-nose pliers to pull the c-clip off the rod
Gently release pressure on the spring
Slide the spring off the rod
Slide the guide off the rod
Slide the guide onto the rod, with side with the large hole facing towards the rear of the pistol
the recoil spring fits into this hole
if you install it backwards, it will bind the slide, because the notch on the bottom of the guide will not fit over the firing pin, and thus the guide will not sit down in the cutout in the slide like it should
Slide the spring onto the rod (does not matter which end of the spring is front or back)
Grab the back of the c-clip with a pair of needle nose pliers (just at the tip of the pliers)
Place the front end of the rod on the table
Compress the spring with your fingers, exposing some of the rod, and keep it compressed
Use the pliers to force the c-clip around the rod, at the groove near the rear tip of the rod
If it helps, lean the exposed part of the rod on a block and hold it there
Release pressure on the spring slowly, and put your hand over the end when you do
This keeps the spring and c-clip from flying if you didn't get the c-clip on all the way
Reassembly Alternate Method #1
In RFC Thread 1149495 user OlongJonhson suggests an easier method
Slide the plastic guide and spring onto the rod as described above.
Pull the spring down
Place the rod in a vise with non-marring jaws (plastic, leather, etc.), so that the groove is level with the top of the vise
Lay the c-clip on the top of the vice jaws
Use a flat-bladed screwdriver to push the c-clip onto the rod
The big advantages here are that the vise holds the rod solidly, and the vise also holds the spring down. That allows you to slide the c-clip on with minimal drama.
|Recoil Spring Guide Assembly (B5152684)
(old, new from factory, 3/32" E-clip)
Recoil spring guide rod (B5152683)
Recoil spring (B5150481)
old above, new below (showing spring age set-in)
Recoil Spring Guide (B5152682)
(rear end facing up)
No preparatory disassembly is necessary. Can be done on whole pistol. Might be easier if you remove the slide first, though.
Metal dental pick with an angled tip - This is very, very helpful here. The delrin / plastic ones are not strong enough.
Note that the tip of the extractor should be sharp, but the edge is not flat / square. The bottom of the edge should be rounded.
The main reason for replacing the extractor is because the tip of the claw chipped or the entire extractor has gone missing.
Aftermarket extractors are available from ???
Sometimes people replace their extractor thinking it will help with the problem where the shell casing is not removed from the chamber after firing.
Remember, however, that the Buckmark operates on the blowback principle, so it's really the force of the expanding gasses from the primer & powder that push the shell casing out of the chamber (with so much force that the shell casing pushes the slide hard enough to cycle the slide). If the shell casing is not leaving the chamber, it is more likely due to a dirty chamber, or a chamber that has been so badly peened by a too-long firing pin that it is preventing the case from leaving reliably. Check those things before replacing your extractor. So what's the purpose of the exatractor then? To hold / control the shell casing until ejection, to allow manual extraction (when unloading the gun by racking the slide), and to provide a pivot point for ejection.
Removal of extractor, extractor plunger, and extractor plunger spring
Lay the gun or slide with the right side facing up
Force the tip of the metal dental pick between the extractor and the plunger
the plunger is held against the extractor by a spring, so the plunger should move backwards
Pull plunger back with pick, far enough to expose the entire extractor
Grab the front of the extractor with the needle-nose pliers and lift the extractor straight up and out
Do not let go of the plunger with the pick yet
Cover the opening at the front of the slide with your finger, THEN carefully move the pick towards the opening, releasing pressure on the spring
otherwise, the plunger will go flying, fast & far (and it's tiny, so it's easy to lose)
If the spring does not simply fall out when you tip the slide, use the pick to gently pull the spring from the slide
Reassembly of the extractor, extractor plunger, and extractor plunger spring
Hold the slide or gun with the front up
Drop the extractor plunger spring into the extractor groove
Hold the plunger so that the flat part faces the inside of the slide (left side of the gun / slide)
Drop the plunger into the extractor groove
Now place slide or gun on the table with right side facing up
Hold the extractor in one hand so that the rounded end faces forward, and the tip of the claw faces the inside of the slide (currently down towards the table)
Put a finger from the other hand over the extractor groove
Push the extractor into the extractor groove, and also push down with the finger covering the groove
The extractor will snap into place
Test movement of the extractor... it should be easily moved away from the chamber, and the spring should snap it back into place (see photo)
|Front of the extractor, showing the shape of the claw tip
Push tip of pick between extractor and plunger
Pull back the plunger to expose the extractor
Extractor Plunger (B5150455 - "Extractor Spring Models"?)
Extractor Spring (B5150456)
These steps will remove the magazine ejector, magazine ejector spring, and magazine ejector retaining pin (B5150514 aka 'grip pin' in Brownells schematic)
Drive magazine ejector retaining pin out (1/8" roll pin punch)
When removing the punch from the frame after the pin is out, hold your finger over the magazine ejector, so that it does not go flying
Pull magazine ejector out
Tilt frame and the spring should fall out
NOTE: Magazine ejector & spring are different for the "Challenge" frame (Challenge parts: mag ejector B5152617, spring B5152618)
NOTE: Magazine ejector retaining pin is different for UDX models (UDX part # B5150055)
Magazine ejector spring wire size is 0.0260" diameter, probably 11 gauge music wire
It shouldn't be too bad, but you can clean out the hole in the frame with a q-tip
Using a 1/8" roll pin starter punch that fits over the magazine ejector retaining pin, hammer the pin enough to get it started, but not so much that it protrudes into the magazine ejector hole in the frame
Turn the frame upside down, and drop the spring into the hole in the frame
Drop the magazine ejector into the hole, flat end first (round end out), with the cut out in the body facing the back of the frame
While pushing the magazine ejector into the frame with your finger, hammer the pin in, at least until it holds the magazine ejector
Placing the frame on the bench block with the magazine ejector retaining pin hole over a hole in the bench block, use a 1/8" roll pin punch to hammer the pin in until sticks out an equal amount on both sides of the frame
Ensure that the magazine ejector can be pushed in with your finger, and is pushed back out again by the spring
Add photo Magazine Ejector
Add photo Magazine Ejector Spring
Add photo Magazine Ejector Retaining Pin
Add photo of removal
Add photo of installation
This screw (3/32" hex head) can be accessed by locking the slide back, and looking at the back of the frame, inside the slide.
It is available on Silhouette and Target models (mostly from the 1990's).
Turning clockwise drives the screw into the frame, putting more pressure on the sear spring, resulting in a heavier trigger pull.
You cannot go too far in, because the head of the screw is not threaded, so it stops when that hits the threads.
Turning counter-clockwise brings the screw out of the frame, putting less pressure on the sear spring, resulting in a lighter trigger pull.
You cannot go too far out, because the head of the screw contacts the stop pin.
Range of adjustment (in lbs of trigger pull) ???
NOTE: I did not remove the sear spring adjusting screw, or it's stop pin. Since there is no hole in the frame to drive the stop pin out, I didn't see a practical way to remove the pin without buggering it. The screw cannot be backed out without removing the pin. The screw cannot be driven forward through the frame because the part around the head is not threaded. So I didn't remove the screw, either.
Sear Spring Adjusting Screw (B5152883)
Sear Screw Stop Pin (B5152884)
This is most easily done with a metal rod, such as a 7/64" or 3mm hex key, plus a punch 3/32"
Use the button to push the follower all the way down, and hold it there by putting the rod through the center slot above the follower
Use the punch (size 3/32") to push the button out of the follower, from right to left
Allow the rod above the follower to be pushed to the top of the center slot
Put the punch through the button hole, and pull the follower down a bit to release pressure on the rod
Remove the rod, place your finger over the top of the magazine, and allow the follower to move up against your finger
Remove the punch from the button hole, and then slowly lift your finger to release the remaining spring pressure
Remove follower by pulling it up out of the magazine body (the spring may or may not come with it)
Remove spring - if it does not fall free, use the rod to push it out
Cleaning the magazine
Magazines get dirty because debris falls into them while the slide is cycling
Check the inside front of the magazine for bullet lube build-up (clean with cotton swab)
include picture(s) of cleaning the spring
long (6") q-tips can be helpful for cleaning the inside bottom of the mag
spray cleaners, like Gun Scrubber or non-chlorinated brake cleaner work well on the mag body, too
be wary of using lube, such as oil, that will mix with fouling to form sludge... use dry lube instead
As with disassembly, this is most easily done with a 3/32" punch and a metal rod, such as a 7/64" or 3mm hex key
Drop spring into magazine body (either end first, doesn't matter)
Insert follower, top up, rounded end towards the front, placing the follower onto the spring
Push the follower down until the button hole is visible in the center slot of the magazine body
Put the punch through the button hole and use it to pull the follower down until there is space above the follower visible in the center slot
Put the metal rod through the center slot above the follower, and now use the rod to hold the follower down
Remove the punch from the button hole
Push follower all the way down until the hole in the follower is lined up with the bottom of the slot, and hold it there
Push the button into the follower, from left to right
Make sure it is all the way in, flush with the right side of the follower
Holding the follower down with the button, remove the metal rod from the center slot
Gently allow the spring to push the follower to the top of the magazine
|Add Photo Hold follower down
Add Photo Push out button
Add Photo cleaning the spring
Add Photo Magazine Body (B5152605)
Add Photo Magazine Follower (B5152673)
Add Photo Magazine Button (B5152672)
Add Photo Magazine Spring (B5152677)